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By Tom Julian
Fashion Wire Daily - Los Angeles - The last official runway show on the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox Studios schedule was appropriately placed, presented and promoted as "the show" to set the stage and new course of the venerable Southern California women's wear company St. John. There was nonstop media buzz with rumors of an Angelina Jolie sighting since she's been signed as the new face of the company, but she did not attend. Hollywood types who did make an appearance included Lisa Rinna and Aisha Tyler.But the base of power in the front row was more about management - former CEO Gucci Group Domenico De Sole, top denim CEO Andreas Kurz of Seven for all Mankind, publisher Tom Florio (of Vogue), the principals of consulting firm Colton Bernard (Roy and Harry) and former St. John and face, Kelly Gray. One insider overhead the daughter of the company's founder say after the show that she never got applause or an ovation after one of her shows in Orange County. The reasons for that will come later in the show review. Keep reading.Fashion Wire Daily queried CEO Richard Cohen (the executive who had led the Ermenegildo Zegna company prior to his appointment in 2004) on his new plan just before a bevy of New York top models took to the stage."It's the beginning and every journey has a beginning," said Cohen. "This is the beginning in L.A., the new direction. This collection was designed by our designers - a team of people. We will probably announce in a month or so a brand new designer that will lead the team."And what would spring bring from a company rooted in lady-like suits and knit dressing? "Dresses, it's all about dresses," Cohen replied. Thirteen dress ideas came down the runway - smart, crisp cotton shirtdresses, a youthful active-striped tank dress, a sleeveless classic wrinkle dress and a very Mrs. Smith (aka Jolie's stylish character from this summer's blockbuster "Mr. and Mrs. Smith") sleeveless knit dress with sexy tone and feminine texture.Showstoppers included the cocktail dresses in either navy or black and done with tweed touches, shaped seams, sexy chiffon and a finale with a knit corseted evening column that shimmered and shined.Cohen told FWD that his vision is addressing two customers today. "We have our core customer that has a religious zeal about St. John, and we are reaching out to a new customer through Gisele and now through Angelina," he said.Those with religious zeal for St. John will still find knit jacket, poplin shirts, trench coats and safari jackets. It felt as though the design team kept the tailored touches that are hallmarks of the house but lightened the mood by deconstructing jackets, adding soft embellishments like taffeta to cuffs, and cropping pants and puckering waist seams on pencil skirts. The only visible runway flaw was a pin tuck slim trouser with a misaligned waistband, ill-placed zipper, shifting the pant silhouette that even a NYC model can't make look good.With styling by George Cortina, the razor sharp runway looks were boldly belted, shown with collars up when appropriate and topped off with smart fedoras and sleek clutches. Manolo Blahnik t-strap stiletto sandals read powerful but sexy with hot walking legs, especially on model Carmen Kass. And with a few swimsuits, cotton voile tanks and scarf printed boxer shorts, youth will only be a St. John shop away for spring.Post-show buzz had many L.A. scenesters saying, "I'd wear St. John now." The reasons are probably rooted in adding a modern viewpoint to classic pieces. But Cohen had another thought. "I think Angelina will be our face, Angelina will be our voice, and Angelina will be part of our company. I think Angelina, of course, is the modern world and between the two of us, we will see what we can do."Look out, modern world.
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